RV Shore Power & Transfer Switch Service in Jensen Beach

Shore power is how your RV gets electricity from a campground pedestal, and the transfer switch is what routes that power (or generator power) to your RV's breaker panel. When either one fails, you're sitting in the dark with no AC, no refrigerator, and no outlets. It's the most urgent electrical call we get, and Scott Marlins has been diagnosing and repairing shore power systems across Jensen Beach for over 10 years. Most problems can be traced to a handful of common failure points, and we can usually fix them the same day.

Shore Power Cord Problems

The shore power cord is the thick cable that runs from your RV to the campground pedestal. It carries either 30 amps (on a TT-30 plug) or 50 amps (on a 14-50 plug), and it takes a beating. The cord gets dragged across pavement, kinked around corners, exposed to rain and UV, and plugged into pedestals that may not be in great condition themselves. Over time, the plug prongs corrode, the insulation cracks, and internal conductors can break or develop high-resistance connections.

Burned or discolored plug prongs are the most common failure we see. This happens when a loose connection at the pedestal or the RV's inlet creates resistance, which generates heat. That heat melts the plug face, pits the prongs, and eventually creates an open circuit or (worse) a fire hazard. Per NEC Article 551, RV electrical connections must be maintained to prevent arcing and overheating. If you see any discoloration on your plug, stop using it and call us.

Cord replacement is straightforward. We carry both 30-amp and 50-amp shore power cords in common lengths (25 and 50 feet). For RVs with permanently mounted cord reels, we can replace the cord on the reel or install a new reel assembly. The connection points at both ends get inspected and tested to make sure the new cord isn't going into a receptacle or inlet that will damage it.

Power Inlet Repair and Replacement

The power inlet is the receptacle mounted on the outside of your RV where the shore power cord connects. It's exposed to weather, road spray, and UV all the time, and it's a common failure point. The inlet's internal contacts wear out from repeated plug insertions, and the housing can crack from UV exposure or impact damage. A failing inlet creates the same high-resistance heating problems as a bad cord.

We replace both the standard screw-terminal inlets and the newer twist-lock designs. The replacement involves disconnecting the wiring from the back of the old inlet, removing the mounting hardware, installing the new inlet with proper weatherproofing, and reconnecting the wiring with correctly torqued terminals. We test the connection under load to verify there's no voltage drop or heating at the new inlet.

For 50-amp systems, the inlet carries significant current (up to 50 amps on each of the two hot legs), so connection quality is critical. A terminal that's even slightly loose can develop enough heat to melt the inlet housing within a few hours of heavy use. We torque every terminal to specification and verify with a thermal check after running the AC for 15 minutes.

Transfer Switch Diagnosis and Repair

The automatic transfer switch (ATS) is the brain of your RV's power distribution. It senses whether shore power or generator power is available, selects the active source, and routes it to the main breaker panel. When the transfer switch fails, common symptoms include having shore power at the inlet but nothing at the breaker panel, the generator running but not powering anything inside, or only some circuits working while others are dead.

Transfer switches in RVs are typically made by either Intellitec or Progressive Dynamics. Both use relay-based switching controlled by a sensing circuit, and both have their own common failure modes. Intellitec units tend to fail at the relay contacts (they weld shut or burn open). Progressive Dynamics units often have issues with the sensing circuit board. We diagnose both types using voltage and continuity testing at each stage of the switch.

Repair costs vary significantly depending on whether the switch can be rebuilt or needs full replacement. A relay replacement on an Intellitec unit runs $200 to $350. A full transfer switch replacement (common on units over 10 years old) runs $400 to $650 including parts and labor. We always try repair first when it's viable.

30-Amp vs. 50-Amp Systems

Understanding the difference between 30-amp and 50-amp RV electrical systems matters for diagnosis and repair. A 30-amp system has one 120-volt hot leg and provides 3,600 watts of total power. A 50-amp system has two 120-volt hot legs and provides 12,000 watts. That's not just a modest increase; it's more than three times the capacity.

Most travel trailers and smaller motorhomes use 30-amp service. Larger fifth wheels and Class A motorhomes use 50-amp. The electrical components (cord, inlet, transfer switch, breaker panel) are completely different between the two systems, so it's important to diagnose within the correct system type. We work on both daily.

Service	Typical Cost
Shore power cord replacement (30-amp)	$95 - $200
Shore power cord replacement (50-amp)	$150 - $325
Power inlet replacement	$150 - $300
Transfer switch relay repair	$200 - $350
Transfer switch full replacement	$400 - $650
Shore power system diagnosis	$95 - $150

Why Shore Power Issues Are Urgent

In Florida, losing shore power isn't just an inconvenience. It means your air conditioning stops, and interior temperatures can hit 100+ degrees within an hour during summer. Your refrigerator stops cooling, and food starts spoiling. If you have pets, it becomes a safety emergency within minutes. That's why we prioritize shore power calls and try to get to every one on the same day.

Electrical problems also tend to get worse, not better, over time. A slightly corroded connection that works intermittently today will burn open tomorrow. A transfer switch relay that's sticking will eventually weld shut. The cost of fixing a problem early is almost always less than the cost of fixing the cascading damage that happens when you wait.

Our Diagnosis Process

We don't guess on electrical work. Every shore power call follows a systematic process. We start at the pedestal and verify the campground is supplying correct voltage (should be 120V plus or minus 5%). We test the shore cord for continuity and resistance. We check the inlet for voltage and connection integrity. We test through the transfer switch to the breaker panel. By the time we've worked through the chain, we know exactly where the failure is.

This methodical approach means we don't replace parts that aren't broken. It's not uncommon for someone to tell us they've already replaced their cord and inlet without fixing the problem, only for us to find that the actual failure was in the transfer switch or the panel main breaker. Test first, replace only what's failed.

Related Electrical Services

• Battery & Converter Repair
• Wiring & Panel Repair
• Outlet & GFCI Repair

Call 772-356-0328 for a free estimate on any shore power or transfer switch issue.